The Performing Arts

Highly acclaimed orchestras playing in truly lovely settings mark the Music at Oxford series at the Oxford Playhouse Theatre, Beaumont Street (tel. 01865/305305; www.oxfordplayhouse.com). The autumn season runs from mid-September to December, the winter season from January to April, the spring-summer season from May to early July. Tickets range from £9-£24 ($14-$38). Classical music is performed by outstanding groups such as the European Union Chamber Orchestra, the Canterbury Musical Society, the Bournemouth Symphony, and the Guild Hall String Ensemble of London. All performances are held in the Sheldonian Theatre, a particularly attractive site, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, with paintings on the ceiling.

The Apollo, George Street (tel. 01865/243041 for ticket reservations), is Oxford's primary theater. Tickets are £6.50[ to £49.50 ($10-$79). A continuous run of comedy, ballet, drama, opera, and even rock contributes to the variety. The Welsh National Opera often performs, and The Glyndebourne Touring Opera appears regularly. Advance booking is recommended, though some shows may have tickets the week of the performance. Don't try for tickets for popular shows on the same day.

At the Oxford Playhouse, performances range from Shakespeare to modern comedy and drama. Tickets are £9[ to £24 ($14-$38). They are open most nights year-round, except some Sundays and the week after Christmas.

Outdoor Bargains -- For some of the best productions in England, with some of the most talented actors, ask the tourist office about summer performances in the college gardens. Student productions have traditionally been held there, but increasingly, professional companies have been taking over the space. Two Shakespeare troupes perform here, as well as other groups. Ticket costs are significantly less than you'd find for a comparable experience elsewhere.

The Clubs: Blues, Jazz & "Celtic Rock"

As a sign of the times, Freud, Walton Street (tel. 01865/311171), has turned a 19th-century church, stained-glass windows and all, into a jazz and folk club with an expansive array of drink choices. The cover charge is £4.50 ($7.20) after 10pm on Friday and Saturday.

Old Fire Station, 40 George St. (tel. 01865/297171), covers all the bases, including live entertainment, a bar, theater, art museum, and a new science museum called Curiosity, with a light show and other exhibits. The restaurant, open daily at noon, serves breakfast until 9pm, with free coffee, tea, and toast. Music cover charges begin at 9pm and are £6 to £8 ($9.60-$13) nightly. Offerings change nightly but include 1970s disco, blues, jazz, and local bands.

Zodiac, 190 Crowley Rd. (tel. 01865/420042), presents everything from easy listening to "Celtic Rock." The cover varies from £4 to £11 ($6.40-$18) depending on the group featured. It's usually open from about 7:30pm to 2am Monday through Friday, from 9pm to 2am Saturday, and is closed Sunday. Club ownership is shared by some major English bands, and local and big-name bands are featured along with DJs, so call ahead to be sure of what you're getting.

The Pub Scene

These places are all good choices for affordable meals, too.

The Head of the River, Abingdon Road at Folly Bridge, near the Westgate Centre Mall (tel. 01865/721600), is operated the family brewery Fuller Smith and Turner. It's a lively place offering true traditional ales and lagers, along with good sturdy fare. In summer, guests sit by the river and can rent a punt or a boat with an engine. Twelve rooms, all with bathroom and overlooking the river, are available for £78 to £95 ($125-$152) in summer, including breakfast, newspaper, and parking.

At The Eagle and Child, 49 Saint Giles St. (tel. 01865/302925), literary history suffuses the dim, paneled alcoves and promotes a sedate atmosphere. For at least a quarter of a century, it was frequented by the likes of C. S. Lewis and J. R. R. Tolkien. In fact, The Chronicles of Narnia and The Hobbit were first read aloud at this pub. Known as the "Bird and Baby," this hallowed ground still welcomes the local dons, and the food is good. It's a settled, quiet place to read the newspapers and listen to classical music on CDs.

The King's Arms, 40 Holywell St. (tel. 01865/242369), hosts a mix of students, gays, and professors. One of the best places in town to strike up a conversation, the pub, owned by Young's Brewery, features six of the company's ales along with visiting lagers and bitters that change periodically.